The Old Trace from North to South

A Late October Exploration of the Natchez Trace

Heading out on Wednesday afternoon from the Nashville side (north entry), I finally ventured down the Natchez Trace as part of my planned trip to Texas. While the more northern routes to Texas, such as the through the Ozarks, Little Rock and through Texarkana, have their own appeal - I felt this time of year was perfect for exploring the "Trace". Besides, it's cooling down now and getting further south a little faster helps to dial the temp up a notch.

For me, this is a road best traveled into the setting sun (Northeast to Southwest, that is toward Natchez) and just like there are certain ways to properly enjoy a fine bourbon or cigar, you have to take the "Trace" in proper style.

For starters, leave yourself plenty of time for soaking it all in. With roughly 16 scenic overlooks, and hundreds of other stops (picnic stops, historical landmarks, visitor facilities, etc., they'll be no better time to get to knwo this area than when you are actually on the road passing through it - so yeah, plan plenty of time (1.5 - 3 days, or more).

Secondly, it's probably a good idea to take this route in good weather. Though, I started in the light rain, the forecast showed it clearing off by day two which made it perfect. And unless your flat-boating down the Mississippi and walking back like the Kaintucks did (yeah that was really a thing), then I'd recommend the initial exploration of this to be from North to South - just an opinion thing... The sunsets to the west are amazing, and best viewed while taking this route south (which is more south-southwest), thus you're chasing the sun that way. Then again, this ties into my whole view on how to travel west. Nobody ever made any good movie about going out west by taking the interstate first to get out there quickly, and then stopping to explore the way back. You just don't do it that way. It's about the journey. There, I've spoken my peace on that LOL.

North Terminus of the Trace, Photo by Danny Montague

The drizzle on Wednesday afternoon was light enough to allow for some initial stops along the way.

Birdsong Hollow Overlook provides a view of the Natchez Trace Parkway Bridge and is easy to access. For any Nashville area peeps, this such a cool and tranquil place to come take a walk and catch a break from the city.

Before you get far, you'll notice deer. Lots of them. This is one of several reasons to take the speed limits seriously (50 mph in most areas, 40 mph in a few). This all adds to the reason for going with plenty of time on your hands. It's refreshing to see wildlife wandering about naturally. I surely saw dozens, if not into the hundreds, of deer from top to bottom of the route. They seemed quite adept to the roadway (they're like: "well of course we are, dummy."). This seems to be the case around parkway like roads - unlike commercial roadways. However, they also tend to like to cross in herds - one at a time. So, beware that if you see one, their may be more. I would always slow down as much as possible to let all across.

Still in Tennesse, the Gordon house (on the left/east side when headed south) is an interesting site, prompting a study of the history associated with it. The place was constructed in 1818 by John Gordon. This is right along the Duck River at the site of a once popular ferry which was of strategic importance for crossing the river. What's fascinating is that much of the brick in this house is original, fired onsite, and using a lime based mortar.

Gordon House from the West - Duck River being below to the right (not in image).

One of the interesting aspects of this route is it's deep documented history, reflecting multiple periods and historically significant events. From ancient times (believed to be over 8000 years ago) through today, this route and surrounding areas have been used by both Native people and Settlers for a variety of reasons.

One particularly interesting period was when the "Kaintucks" (cane-tucks) would flatboat down the Mississippi River to New Orleans from Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee to sell their goods and boats. They'd then often walk their way back home via the Natchez Trace. Today, there is a Kaintuck Trail site commemorating them near port Gibson, Mississippi.

From the path taken during the War of 1812, to native trade routes in the BC era, and onto a driveable parkway by our horselss carriages of the current era, this place is teeming with history. I'm certainly no historian, but sometimes you just learn little bits and pieces as you study these types of routes. And, it certainly makes it all the more interesting.

I drove into the night for a few hours through the Alabama and northern Mississippi portions. The only bad thing about this is every time I cross into Mississippi I can't help but get the song "Black Velvet" by Allanah Myles stuck in my head - so without much to see in terms of sites, turned up the music and yes, had to play that one too. Damn good song.

After stopping off in Tupelo for the night, the continued journey south took me past some site believed to have been explored by Hernando DeSoto (yeah - he was all over the place) and then on to the Bynum Indian Mounds of the Middle Woodland Period - believed to be from 100 BCE to 400 CE. Perhaps most fascinating are the artifacts archaeologists have uncovered here, indicative of the extensive Hopewellian trade cultures, nearly spanning the continent.

The mounds themselves are believed to have been used for burial and ceremonial purposes.

Bynum Mound under midday Sun

The entire drive down, one can't help but notice a gradual shift in the landscape, more from the hilly meadows to bayous, oaks, moss and those distinctive gulf coast-eque elements. Sure, this isn't the Louisana swamp (yet), but it's a sign I'm heading in the right direction if I'm looking for some gumbo, po-boys or jambalya. For me, this reality started to set in just a few miles north of Jackson, where I came across the Tupelo Baldcypress Swamp.

There's just something about this place... Calm, quiet, rejuvenating.